Modern Knit-look Crochet Jumper Free Pattern

I have not taken this crochet jumper off- my Sideways Jumper- is another free pattern right here on the blog. Check out my blog post, read about the construction or scroll down for the free crochet jumper pattern.

The Sideways Crochet Jumper Pattern

DESIGN PROCESS

The construction of this crochet jumper is slightly different because I have literally turned it on its side! As a result you get vertical lines of stitches running through the jumper.

These are great because they frame your silhouette and create a nice flowing garment. The main body of this crochet jumper is worked in rows running from neck to waist.

I have used half double crochet stitch worked through the third loop only because I just love this stitch. As a result you get a ribbed crochet jumper that looks knitted.

crochet jumper being worn in mustard colour

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CHOOSING THE PERFECT YARN FOR YOUR CROCHET JUMPER

For this crochet jumper pattern I have used an aran/worsted weight/10-ply yarn – Deramores Studio Aran in Mustard.

It is a stunning yarn that has anti-pilling qualities so it withstands a few spins in a washing machine without spoiling. This smooth yarn is so easy to work with as the stitches were literally flying off my hook.

The stitch definition is really great.

This crochet jumper pattern uses half double crochet stitch worked through the third loop only. It is a lovely crochet stitch that is easy to work but creates a complex looking fabric.

The finished jumper has a lovely stretch and give so it is not too tight and very comfortable to wear. I have made a quick video tutorial on how to work hdc in tlo.

back view of crochet jumper

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pinterest graphic for crochet jumper pattern

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MATERIALS

Deramores Studio Aran in Marigold x 6 (7, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12) balls

Aran/worsted/10-ply yarn; 165m/ 180yards per 100g ball; 100% acrylic

If you are using yarn substitute you will need 960 (1080, 1175, 1340, 1460, 1610, 1710, 1860, 1970) metres of suitable yarn

Please note the exact yarn quantities depend on your tension and hook size.

5.5 mm crochet hook

Tape measure

Yarn needle

Scissors

FINISHED SIZE

SIZE CHEST CIRCUMFERENCE FINISHED LENGTH SLEEVE LENGTH FROM UNDERARM
XS 76cm 52cm 42cm
S 86cm 53cm 43cm
M 96cm 53cm 43cm
L 106cm 54.5cm 44.5cm
XL 118cm 55cm 44.5cm
2XL 128cm 55.5cm 45.5cm
3XL 138cm 55.5cm 45.5cm
4XL 148cm 57cm 47cm
5XL 158cm 57cm 47cm

The crochet jumper pattern has been designed to an actual body measurement. The stitches create a stretchy fabric. The sample shown in photo is size M.

TENSION

18 sts x 13 rows = 10 x 10 cm measured over hdc in tlo

STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS (US CROCHET TERMS)

US terms   UK terms
ch Chain stitch ch
hdc Half double crochet htr
sc in blo Single crochet worked through back loop only dc in blo
hdc tlo Half double crochet worked through third loop only htr tlo
Hdc2tog in tlo Half double crochet the following stitches together working through the third loop only htr2tog in tlo
sc Single crochet dc
sl st Slip stitch sl st
dc2tog Double crochet the following 2 sts together tr2tog

PATTERN NOTES

  • The jumper is worked in separate front and back panels which are sewn together at the end, sleeves are worked onto the main body.
  • The front and back panels are worked in vertical rows with the sc in blo hem at the bottom
  • I recommend placing stitch markers through the third loop of the first and last hdc as these get a little confusing and often lost affecting the end stitch count.
  • As you are working in rows the third loop of hdc st appears on the side facing you = front third loop. To watch a quick video please click here.
  • 2 ch at the start of odd rows of main body and sleeve rounds does not count as a stitch, the first hdc in tlo is worked through the st at the bottom of 2 ch

SIZE ADJUSTMENTS

  • The foundation chain determines the total length of the jumper, to adjust the length simply add or take away stitches from the starting chain
  • The number of rows on the front and back panels determines the chest circumference or the width of the jumper, to adjust the width add or take away number of rows.
  • To adjust the width of the back, add or take away EVEN number of rows (2, 4, 6, 8 etc.) To adjust the front panel, add or take away half the number of adjusted rows of the back to either side of the shorter rows of neckline to keep the shorter rows in the middle of the front panel and the sides even.

EXAMPLE- I’m making XS size, I added 6 rows to the back panel. I need to add 3 extra rows to the front panel just before working Row 12, carry on with pattern, add 3 extra rows after completing the pattern.

  • The front and back panels are sewn together at the shoulder seams and on either side, the armholes are created by leaving stitches at the side open, to adjust the depth of the armhole sew up the sides higher for a smaller armhole or lower for a larger armhole
  • The sleeves are tapered by working 3 standard and 1 decrease row. For a wider sleeve work 4 or 5 standard and 1 decrease row. To taper the sleeve more rapidly work 2 standard rows and 1 decrease row. To adjust sleeve length ad on extra rounds at the end.
  • The sleeve cuffs are worked onto the main sleeve at 90-degree angle.
graphic of the sweater
back panel of the crochet jumper

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CROCHET JUMPER PATTERN

BACK PANEL

Chain 94 (96, 96, 99, 100, 101, 101, 104, 104).

Row 1: starting in 3rd chain from hook (counts as 1st hdc), hdc across until last 8 ch, 8 sc, turn. 93 (95, 95, 98, 99, 100, 100, 103, 103) sts

Row 2: 1 ch (doesn’t count as st here and throughout) 8 sc in blo, hdc in tlo across working last hdc into top of beg 2 ch, turn. 93 (95, 95, 98, 99, 100, 100, 103, 103) sts

Row 3:  2 ch (see pattern notes above), hdc in tlo until last 8 sts, 8 sc in blo, turn. 93 (95, 95, 98, 99, 100, 100, 103, 103) sts

Repeat rows 2-3 until you have 47 (53, 59, 65, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97) rows in total.

Fasten off.

FRONT PANEL

Repeat pattern as for BACK for the first 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27) rows.

Row 12 (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28):  1 ch, 8 sc in blo, hdc in tlo across until last 5 sts, turn leaving remaining stitches unworked. 88 (90, 90, 93, 94, 95, 95, 98, 98) sts

Row 13 (15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27, 29): 2 ch, hdc in tlo until last 8 sts, 8 sc in blo, turn. 88 (90, 90, 93, 94, 95, 95, 98, 98) sts

Row 14 (16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28, 30): 1 ch, 8 sc in blo, hdc in tlo across, turn. 88 (90, 90, 93, 94, 95, 95, 98, 98) sts

Repeat last 2 rows another 11 (12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20) times.

Row 37 (41, 45, 49, 55, 59, 63, 67, 71): chain 6, working into 3rd ch from the hook (counts as first hdc) 4 hdc, hdc in tlo until last 8 sts, 8 sc in blo, turn. 93 (95, 95, 98, 99, 100, 100, 103, 103) sts

Row 38 (42, 46, 50, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72): 1 ch, 8 sc in blo, hdc in tlo across, turn. 93 (95, 95, 98, 99, 100, 100, 103, 103) sts

Row 39 (43, 47, 51, 57, 61, 65, 69, 73):  2 ch, hdc in tlo until last 8 sts, 8 sc in blo, turn. 93 (95, 95, 98, 99, 100, 100, 103, 103) sts

Repeat last 2 rows until you have 47 (53, 59, 65, 73, 79, 85, 91, 97) rows in total. Fasten off.

SEWING UP PANELS

Line up the Front and Back panels, sew up at shoulder seams from outside in until you reach the adjusted neckline in the middle. Sew up or crochet (with sc st) the sides together starting at the bottom hem working up. Create armhole opening by leaving last 30 (32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 46, 48, 50) sts unworked on each side.

SLEEVES (repeat on both sides)

The sleeves are worked in round using hdc in tlo stitch, slip st to top of 1st hdc at the end of the round and turn your work at the end of each round for the pattern to work.

Join yarn in the first st of the armhole.

Rnd 1: 2 ch (doesn’t count as a st, start working in same st), 1 hdc around, sl st to top of first hdc, TURN.  60 (64, 68, 76, 80, 88, 92, 96, 100) sts

Rnd 2 – 3: 2 ch (see pattern notes above), 1 hdc in tlo around, sl st to top of first hdc, TURN.  60 (64, 68, 76, 80, 88, 92, 96, 100) sts

Rnd 4: 2 ch, 1 hdc2tog in tlo, hdc in tlo around until last 2 sts, 1 hdc2tog in tlo, sl st to top of first hdc, TURN.  58 (62, 66, 74, 78, 86, 90, 94, 98) sts

SIZES XS, S, M, L ONLY

(Work Rnd 2 three times and Rnd 4 once) repeat until the sleeve measures 38 (39, 39, 40.5) cm from underarm.

SIZES XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL ONLY

(Work Rnd 2 twice and Rnd 4 once) repeat until the sleeve measures 40.5 (41.5, 41.5, 43, 43) cm from underarm.

All sizes next rnd: 1 ch, 1 sc around, sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off.

SLEEVE CUFFS (repeat on both sleeves)

With yarn still attached to sleeve chain 9.

Row 1: starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc across the chain just made, (sl st to next st on main sleeve) twice, turn. 8 sc

Row 2: 1 ch, working across the sts from previous row, 8 sc in blo, turn. 8 sc

Row 3: 1 ch, 8 sc in blo, (sl st to next st on main sleeve) twice, turn. 8 sc

Repeat Rows 2-3 around the sleeve. Fasten off.

NECKLINE

The neckline is kept simple by working dc2tog st around to tighten up the neckline, each end hdc st of the rows around neckline counts as 1 st.

Join yarn in any of the 5 sts at the side of the neckline.

Rnd 1: 2 ch, 1 dc in next (counts as first dc2tog), 1 dc2tog around working around the end sts of each row, sl st to first dc2tog. Fasten off.

Sew in all ends. Block to dimensions.

crochet jumper pattern for women free pattern

Happy crocheting! I hope you enjoyed the pattern.

If you wanted to browse through all my previously published designs for magazines and yarn companies, visit the shop section.

You might also like 10 Modern Crochet Sweater Pattern Ideas For Women pattern collection.

Check out the blog for more free patterns! You might also like Modern Crochet Color Block Sweater Pattern For Fall – Ada Sweater.

This blog post contains affiliate links and if you click through them to make a purchase, I will earn a commission. I link these companies and their products because of their quality and service not because of the commission I receive from your purchase.

About Veronika Cromwell

Hi, I’m Veronika! I design modern and wearable crochet garments, accessories and homewares. Grab your hook and find your next project!

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13 thoughts on “Modern Knit-look Crochet Jumper Free Pattern

  1. I’m going to give this one a whirl too. It looks simple enough for even somebody who has problems with guage quite often. Now that I know what she means by tlo, and where that is, I’m good to go! I’ll post you when it’s finished. I need to get some new yarn first – yippee!!

  2. I’m confused about adding rows. If I’m making an x’s and add 6 rows to the back I need to add 3 before row 12. But adding 3 gives me an even 14 rows and I would not be starting single crochet in the BLO? What am I missing please?

    1. Hi Mary, I’m assuming you are now working on the neckline and you finished at the top rather than the bottom hem?
      To carry on with the pattern you can fasten off, miss 5 sts for the neckline, rejoin yarn and carry on working the neckline.
      Does that help? I’m happy to advise further if you get stuck. Just drop me an email via the contact me page.

    1. Hi, if you could please explain a bit more what it is you are struggling with, I’d be happy to help!

  3. Hello. I am at the point where I need to sew the shoulder seams together. What sewing stitch do you recommend? Barring errors, which is quite possible because I am new to crocheting, the way my side edges align leaves me with “bump to bump” and “valley to valley” along the shoulder seam. So a mattress stitch doesn’t really “fill in” the “valleys.” I hope my explanation makes sense. I appreciate any suggestions! Thank you.

    1. Hi, I believe I have sewn mine together with a needle and yarn, not sure what stitch it was though. I would suggest experimenting on a small piece and see what works best for you and looks the neatest.

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